THE YESO COURTYARD OF THE ALCAZAR OF SEVILLE

The Alcázar of Seville is considered the oldest royal palace in use in Europe and is one of the main monuments in the city of Seville, declared a World Heritage Site in 1987, along with the cathedral and the Alcázar.

More than a palace itself, it is a set of palaces and gardens that have been built throughout history from an original medieval Islamic nucleus. However, almost everything of the Muslim palaces has been lost, since the space was completely reformulated after the arrival of the Christians, with new palaces in Mudejar and Gothic styles, with reforms and extensions of the landscaped spaces with Renaissance contributions , mannerists and baroque.

We do not know the exact characteristics of the Islamic fortress, but it is certain that it was also subjected to successive extensions, especially during the 11th and 12th centuries, to form a set of various palatial rooms interspersed by patios and gardens, as would happen later in Christian era.

Archaeological excavations have shown that the main nucleus of the complex was articulated around an area that would go between the current patios de Banderas and del León. In this context is framed the so-called Patio del Yeso, the only significant remnant of this primitive Muslim palace that has survived, in addition to a good part of the walls that surround the Alcázar, which are also largely from the Islamic period.

The courtyard remained hidden among the houses that had been built in the area and was rediscovered at the end of the 19th century by the politician and art historian Francisco María Urbino. It dates back to the 12th century and is a small gem of Almohad architecture in the city. After its discovery, it was deeply restored at various times in the 20th century, until reaching the configuration that has survived to us.

 

It has a rectangular plan to which a portico with multi-lobed arches opens. One central, wider and taller, and three others on each side, supported by pilasters and four marble columns. It must be said that the structure of the portico is actually lintelled, so the arches do not have a structural function, so they fulfill a decorative function. This allowed them to dig deep into its ornamentation, using the work known as sebka, so characteristic of Almohad art and which reaches its maximum Sevillian expression in the decoration of the Giralda.

In front of this portico, on the other side of the cistern that occupies the patio, another one that has disappeared today would surely be located. What have been preserved are three horseshoe arches today blinded, which would give access to the rooms behind them. They are closer to the Caliphate tradition, framed by bishops and supported by marble columns.

 

EL CID IN SEVILLE

Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, the Cid Campeador, is probably the most famous figure of the entire Spanish Middle Ages. He was an eleventh century warrior from Burgos, who worked in the service of the kingdom of León, suffering successive exiles after which he went on to fight on his own with changing loyalties and alliances in the turbulent context of the Reconquest Peninsula. In the final phase of his life, he became lord of the city of Valencia, which maintained an independent status during this period.

In the narration of his biography, historical accounts are mixed with literary and legendary sources. The famous Cantar del Mío Cid was composed about it, a deed or epic song dated around 1200 and which is the first extensive poetic work that has been preserved in Spanish. The very nature of the work makes many of the passages collected in it have a fabulous character and heroic praise of the exploits of the Cid. That is why the historical data from other sources qualify or deny many of the singing episodes.

One fact that we do know is true is Rodrigo Díaz's passage through Seville on one of his main missions in the service of King Alfonso VI from Leon. It was around 1079 and the Cid came to the city to collect the outcasts or tributes that the Sevillian kingdom paid to that of León. At that time, Isbiliya was an independent Taifa kingdom ruled by Al Mutamid, which despite having achieved a notable expansion of its territories, was harassed by the Christian kingdom to the point of committing to the payment of these taxes in exchange for avoiding incursions. in their territories.

The moment in which the Cid was in Seville coincided with an episode of confrontation with the neighboring taifa of Granada. The Granada troops had entered the territories of the Sevillian kingdom, before which King Al Mutámid requested the help of Rodrigo in order to confront them.

El Cid, considering the Sevillian king an ally of his lord, agreed to help and left the city to confront the Granada army. He was victorious in a battle that took place near Cabra (Córdoba), after which he took the main leaders of the Granada side prisoner.

His mission accomplished, the Cid returned to Seville victorious and from there he left for the kingdom of León with the taxes collected. In the aforementioned battle, another lord in the service of the Leonese king, Count García Ordóñez, had participated, but he did so on the Granada side, being one of those arrested by El Cid after his defeat. Once freed, the count accused Rodrigo before the king of having with part of the tributes collected in Seville, which meant a first fall from grace and exile for the Cid, within the framework of his always complicated relations with Alfonso VI.

In Seville there are several points where the figure of the Cid Campeador is remembered. The main one is with the magnificent equestrian monument that is located in the south of the avenue that bears his name. It is a work made in 1927 by the American sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington, being placed on its site the following year. It was a gift from the New York Hispanic Society to the city of Seville on the occasion of the celebration of the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. In fact, it was decided to place it right in front of what was the main entrance to the venue, between the Portugal Pavilion and the old Tobacco Factory.

The author of it stood out above all for her monumental bronze sculpture, frequently representing historical figures and specializing above all in the recreation of animals. In this field she achieved great mastery, especially with the figure of the horse, of which Huntington was a true lover of her.

These qualities are clear in the example of her statue for Seville. El Cid's horse is represented with great anatomical realism and conveying a strong sense of movement, which gives the entire work a great dynamism that does not detract from its solemnity.

The posture of Rodrigo's figure, turned to one side with respect to the axis of the horse, contributes to this dynamism. He wears a warrior's mail and raises an arm holding a spear, in an attitude of haranguing the troops. In the other arm he carries a shield and his sword.

It is a magnificent example of twentieth-century equestrian sculpture, which from the beginning was recognized and admired by both the Sevillians and the artistic circles of the time. The original sketch of the work was made in the same year 1927 and is located today at Brookgreen Gardens in South Carolina. The success of the Sevillian monument led to several copies being made that are distributed throughout various parts of the Spanish and American geography, such as New York, Buenos Aires, San Francisco or Valencia.

The other monumental references that we can find in Seville about the Cid are not far from there and are also linked to the 1929 Exhibition. They are located in the Plaza de España, the central space of this event. In the plinth that runs along the entire concave façade of what was once the enormous Spanish Pavilion, the representations of scenes alluding to each of the Spanish provinces were located, with the corresponding shield on the upper part of each one of them.

They were made in tiles, constituting one of the most beautiful examples of the impulse in the ceramic industry that was experienced at the beginning of the 20th century, linked to the rise of regionalism and the immense demand generated by the preparatory works for the Exhibition.

In the space dedicated to Burgos, a scene alluding to the Cid is represented, framed by neo-baroque decoration, with Solomonic columns, plant motifs and cherubs. Specifically, it is La Jura de Santa Gadea, a legendary episode collected in an old romance. According to this story, at the coronation ceremony of Alfonso VI, Rodrigo would have required him to take a public oath that he had had nothing to do with it. the death of his brother and predecessor Sancho IV. This affront would not be ignored by the king, who for that reason would have ordered the first exile of the Cid.

It must be said that this episode only appears within the framework of the literary account collected in the old ballads and is not supported by any historical source close to the facts. Rather, what we know of the early days of the relationship between Rodrigo and Alfonso VI seems to deny that the famous passage actually occurred.

Real or imaginary, it was considered that The Jura de Santa Gadea was a scene worthy of serving as a symbol of Burgos in the Plaza de España, representing the illustrious past and the historical importance of this Castilian city. The work is from the Triana ceramic factory of Mensaque and the author of its original was Pedro Borrego Bocanegra, who knew how to capture the scene in a very beautiful way, in the historicist and romantic style predominant at the time.

In the same square, in the spandrels of the arches of the arcaded gallery that runs along the entire façade, there are forty-eight medallions with the high-relief busts of fifty illustrious figures from the history of Spain up to (there are two double medallions). They were made by the same factory in Mensaque and the author of the effigies was Pedro Navia Campos. Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar is also represented here, wearing a helmet and mesh, occupying the space between Alfonso X and Don Pelayo. In the molding of the tondo you can read the simple inscription of EL CID.

BRIDGES OF SEVILLE

Despite the intense population of the Guadalquivir valley since prehistoric times, the river has had very few bridges throughout its history, mainly due to the unstable nature of the terrain it crosses and its irregular character, with frequent and regular floods. , which always hampered the layout of engineering works in their surroundings.

In fact, until the Triana bridge was built in 1852, there was no fixed connection between the two banks of the Guadalquivir south of Córdoba, where a bridge has existed since Roman times.

On the other hand, the Romans did not undertake the work of equipping Hispalis with a bridge, despite the importance that we know that the city and its neighbor Italica reached, probably for the same reasons of fluvial instability that we have already commented on.

In the Almohad period, around the year 1171, the first and only stable bridge that the city had until the construction of the current Isabel II or Triana bridge, already in the middle of the 19th century. It was in the same place as the current one and consisted of about ten boats moored together with chains on which two large wooden platforms were arranged.

This structure made it possible to solve with a certain guarantee the connection of the city with its suburb of Triana, thus facilitating the supply of products that arrived from Aljarafe. However, the regular floods of the river made it a rather unstable infrastructure, which had to be subjected to constant repairs and replacements of some of its boats, with the consequent problems that this entailed for the access and exit of people and goods from the city. town.

These circumstances led to the idea of ​​equipping Seville with a construction bridge from very early on. There are numerous projects since the 16th century, but all of them were successively parked, until in the 19th century the idea prevailed that it was necessary to tackle this problem definitively, finally deciding on the execution of the current Isabel II bridge project or Triana, which was completed in 1852, becoming one of the icons of the city.

From then on, many others were built in the surroundings of Seville, until today there are more than twenty, among those that cross the living riverbed of the Guadalquivir and those that do so on the Alfonso XIII dock that runs between the center and Triana. There are very diverse characteristics, from those that fulfill a merely functional function to those that meet notable artistic values, representative of the time in which they were built.

The 1992 Universal Exposition would be a decisive event in terms of this type of infrastructure in the city. To condition its surroundings, in the years immediately preceding, some of the most beautiful bridges that Seville has today were built, such as the Barqueta bridge or the impressive Alamillo bridge, which has become one of the icons of the city. town.

It would be very extensive to talk about each and every one of the Sevillian bridges, but it is possible to sketch a route from south to north, dealing with the most emblematic of the city.

Puente de San Telmo

The original design of the San Telmo bridge corresponds to the engineer José Eugenio Ribera and was executed between 1925 and 1931, to link the center of the city with the Los Remedios neighborhood, which at that time had barely been projected.

It was built in concrete, with a length of 238 meters and a width of 15 m. It consists of two large reinforced concrete arches and a central one, which was originally a drawbar, but which was remade as a fixed one in a refurbishment of the mid-60s, due to the high cost of its maintenance since there were already very few tall ships Passing by needed to go through it.

The original project of the bridge, from the 1920s, featured more decorative elements, with a more modernist air. However, by the years of its completion, this decorative design had largely passed out of fashion and a simpler aesthetic was chosen, revealing more clearly the structure of the bridge and the concrete in which it was made.

Puente de Isabel II o de Triana

The Isabel II bridge, generally called the Triana bridge, was built in 1852, being the oldest in Seville and the oldest preserved metal bridge in all of Spain.

It stands in the place where the so-called Barcas bridge stood for centuries, which was the only stable connection between Seville and Triana, since it was placed by the Almohads in the 12th century until the 19th century, where it was built. the actual.

The execution of the bridge was entrusted to the engineers Fernando Bernadet and Gustavo Steinacher, who followed the model of the Carousel bridge in Paris, the work of the engineer Polonceau. The Parisian bridge was replaced at the beginning of the 20th century, but photographs are preserved that show the extraordinary similarity between the two, although the Sevillian one is somewhat longer, since the Guadalquivir in this section is wider than the Seine.

It has a length of 155 meters and a width of 16 meters on its platform. It rests on three sections of metal arches, supported by stone pillars. In the spandrels there are a series of metallic rings, of decreasing size as they approach the keystone of the arch, constituting the most distinctive visual element of the bridge.

The bridge required numerous foundation and reform reforms shortly after it was inaugurated, to adapt it to the growing traffic. In one of the most important, in 1977, the entire deck was replaced, which stopped resting on the metal arches and their rings, so that they lost their structural function, currently conserving only a decorative function.

Puente del Cristo de la Expiración o del "Cachorro"

The construction of the Cristo de la Expiración or “Cachorro” bridge was completed in 1991, within the infrastructure improvement program that took place prior to the 1992 Expo. Specifically, the Guadalquivir basin was extended again. towards the north of Chapina, with which the river gained about 4 kilometers of route that had been previously drained when moving its channel to avoid flooding.

The bridge was designed by José Luis Manzanares Japan, taking its shape from another Parisian bridge, in this case the Alexander III bridge. It has a length of 223 meters and a width of 31, supported by a structure of two lowered and parallel arches, with a span of 126 meters and without any support under water, so it rests only on the ends.

At present, it is the main connecting route from the city to Aljarafe and Huelva. In addition to its name, it is also known as the Chapina bridge or as the bridge of the "tolditos", since its sidewalks are covered by white canvases supported by poles that allow avoiding the sun when crossing it, constituting one of its most visual elements. characteristic.

Puente de la Barqueta

It is a work of the engineers Juan José Arenas de Pablo and Marcos Jesús Pantaleón Prieto, completed in 1992, as the main access route from the city to the Universal Exhibition site. Initially, its use was pedestrian, although its project already provided for its suitability for road traffic. It was built on land and later placed on its site with the help of barges.

It has a length of 168 meters and a width of 21, with a platform suspended from a large steel arch of 214 meters, which opens at its ends to form a kind of triangular porticoes, under which traffic flows through the bridge. These ends of the arch rest on four vertical supports, two at each end of the bridge, without any intermediate support.

Puente del Alamillo

The Alamillo bridge is the most iconic of those made in Seville for the Expo. It is a design by Santiago Calatrava and was built between 1989 and 1992.

It consists of a platform about 200 meters long by 30 meters wide, supported following the typology of "cable-stayed bridge with counterweight pylon", widely used by this Valencian architect. A single 140 meter high mast supports the entire platform, by means of 26 tie rods that give the whole the characteristic harp shape.

Initially, the project included another identical and symmetrical bridge over the section of the river that separates the Cartuja from Camas, but budgetary reasons led to this idea being discarded and it was decided to build a more conventional bridge, the Corta bridge, in its place.

The Alamillo Bridge was the tallest building in the city until 2015, when the Torre Sevilla was inaugurated. Santiago Calatrava later built other bridges that follow the typology of the Alamillo model, such as the Puente de la Mujer in Buenos Aires or that of l'Assut de l'Or in Valencia.

THE ROSINA BALCONY

Seville is a city full of legends. It is full of corners about which beautiful stories are told, in which historical data are mixed with other literary or even fantastic ones. In the emblematic neighborhood of Santa Cruz, specifically in the Plaza de Alfaro, there is one of these corners whose legend the guides are almost obliged to relate.

It is the so-called Balcón de Rosina, which opens from number four of the aforementioned square to the Jardines de Murillo. It is called like this when attributing it to be the setting in which part of the history of the Barber of Seville takes place.

As it is said, this story, described for the first time in a Beaumarchais play from 1775, would be inspired by a real event that would have happened in this Sevillian house. As a synthesis of her argument, we can say that the Barber of Seville tells the story of Rosina, a young orphan who was in charge of an elderly tutor named Bartolo who wanted her as her wife. The young Count of Almaviva also falls in love with her, who follows the advice of her barber, Fígaro, in order to conquer her lady. In one of his courtship episodes, the lover gets to organize a serenade with other musicians at the foot of Rosina's balcony, in a scene that, as it is described, the truth is that it would fit perfectly in this beautiful Sevillian place from which we have been talking.

The world fame of the story would come from the hand of the Italian composer Rossini, who would take it to the stage with an opera premiered in 1816 and which would achieve world fame, to the point that it is probably the most outstanding example of the so-called "bufa opera" , which is characterized by having a comic theme. Even today it is still one of the most performed operas in the world.

The case of this city-inspired opera is not an isolated case. In fact, Seville is often said to be the place where the most operas have been set in the world. It is difficult to verify this fact, but what is certain is that there have been so many authors who have used it as a framework for their stories, that there are at least a hundred operas whose plot takes place totally or partially in Seville. To cite just a few top-level examples, we can mention Don Giovanni or The Marriage of Figaro by Mozart, Fidelio by Beethoven, La Fuerza del Destino by Verdi or Carmen by Bizet.

In the case of Rossini's opera that we have been talking about, it is easy to see that it is not actually the balcony from which a hypothetical Rosina was looking out, since it is a building from the end of the 19th century, a century after it Beaumarchais wrote his Barber of Seville. A new owner acquired it in 1925 and undertook a reform in the framework of the regionalist spirit in which the city was imbued in the years before the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. Following this style, and probably wanting to recreate the opera scene, the beautiful balcony that has survived to this day was built.

In addition, at the same time the main door of the building was added, which is a beautiful example of a baroque door from the 17th or 18th century. Apparently, the owner had it brought from a palace or convent in Écija. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, as we see by the image of its central niche, and by the reliefs of the two medallions on the jambs, in which we see a well and a fountain, alluding to two of the invocations of Mary in the litanies, such as Puteus Aquarum (well of living waters or wisdom) and Fons Signatus (sealed source). On the lintel we see another relief with the Ave Maria anagram.

This recovery of architectural pieces from the past to incorporate them into new buildings perfectly matches the historicism of regionalist architecture. It has a romantic character that agrees perfectly with the evocation of literary or legendary episodes such as that of the Barber of Seville.

In short, we cannot say that Rosina heard from this beautiful balcony the serenades that her lover offered her at midnight from the square, but it is a beautiful example of regionalist architecture and its historicist character, which also serves to remember the Seville's fundamental role as one of the most recurrent settings in the history of European literature since the Renaissance.

TOUR OF THE JEWISH QUARTER OF SEVILLE

1h 30m - Private groups of up to 10 people - Flexible start time

The ideal option to discover the most interesting corners of the Santa Cruz neighborhood in relation to the history of the Jewish community in the city. This tour covers some of the most beautiful squares and alleys in Seville, which serve as the setting for a journey through some of the most important episodes in our history.

Guide: Manuel Hellín, graduate in History and official tourist guide of Andalusia.

 

THE SEVILLIAN ALICE IN WONDERLAND

The Monastery of Santa María de las Cuevas is one of the most important monumental complexes from the historical point of view among the many that Seville has. It is located near the old town, but on the other side of the river from the center, on an island formed in the Guadalquivir that is known from the Monastery as Isla de la Cartuja.

It has an intense history dating back at least to Islamic times. Apparently, during the Almohad domination, towards the 12th century, there were pottery workshops and kilns in the area, which were supplied from the abundance of clay derived from the proximity to the riverbed. To extract these clay, the raw material for ceramics, a kind of caves were dug. Legend has it that an image of the Virgin appeared in one of these caves after the Christian conquest of the city in 1248. For this reason, a hermitage was built there to worship it, which would be the germ of the later monastery.

Around this primitive temple, there was initially a community of Franciscans, but since the beginning of the 15th century they are replaced by the Carthusians as the titular order of the monastery. This order had been founded by Saint Bruno at the end of the 11th century in the vicinity of Grenoble (France) and was characterized by the rigor in the fulfillment of the moral precepts, the austerity and the simplicity in the way of life of its members.

From its beginnings in Seville, the new monastery had the favor of important noble families of the city, which was causing a remarkable enrichment of its facilities since its inception, with an increasing number of dependent agricultural properties, not only in Seville , but in numerous municipalities of the province, derived from donations and concessions.

The importance of the monastic complex is well reflected in the number of personalities that have passed through it throughout history. Christopher Columbus himself lived here for a season, as the monument in his honor that has been in its gardens since the end of the 19th century recalls. In fact, here he received strong support from the Carthusians in his project to reach the Indies through the West. After his death, his remains were deposited in the church of the monastery for a time together with those of his son Diego, until his widow ordered the transfer of both to Santo Domingo in 1544.

Other important characters who have passed through here are the Emperor Carlos V, who visited him in 1526 on the occasion of his wedding in Seville with Isabel de Portugal, as well as later monarchs, such as his son Felipe II or Felipe IV. It has also welcomed such relevant figures of literature as Teresa de Jesús, and artists of the stature of Zurbarán or Duque Cornejo have worked in its stays.

As a result of this long history, the monastic complex was enriched with successive spaces of great artistic value, some of which have survived to this day, such as the magnificent Gothic church, the Mudejar cloister or the Chapel of the Virgen de las Cuevas and the main portal, already baroque from the 18th century.

However, much of the artistic heritage that was treasured over the centuries was lost in the monastery's tumultuous history during the 19th century. During the disastrous French occupation of Seville, it was converted into a barracks for the Napoleonic troops and most of its works of art were dispersed or destroyed, in addition to undergoing profound alterations in its appearance. The monks would return for a time after the expulsion of the French, but the monastery would be definitively confiscated in 1836.

It was then that it was used to house the famous ceramic factory of Carlos Pickman, one of the main Sevillian industries in the 19th century, whose pieces would achieve enormous fame for their quality, to the point that even today many Spanish homes treasure pieces of the Charterhouse of Seville. When used for this purpose, the monastic space would logically undergo great transformations, adding for example the large bottle-shaped chimneys, which over time have become one of the most recognizable elements of the entire island of La Cartuja, as well as in a very important testimony of the industrial heritage of Andalusia.

Already in the 20th century, the ceramic factory was moved to Salteras and all its facilities became publicly owned. During the 80s, important rehabilitation works were carried out, especially with a view to the Universal Exhibition of 1992, in which the old monastery served as the Royal Pavilion, where the heads of state and government who attended the event were received.

At present, its facilities are the headquarters of several institutions dependent on the Board: the Rectorate of the International University of Andalusia, the Andalusian Institute of Historical Heritage and the Andalusian Center for Contemporary Art.

The latter is generally known by its acronym, CAAC, and has its headquarters in the Cartuja since 1997. It brings together an interesting collection of works of art with a chronology ranging from the mid-50s of the 20th century to the present day, which can be seen regularly enriched by the numerous temporary exhibitions that take place in its premises and that make it somehow a living museum, open to the most current artistic trends.

Since 2013, the CAAC has among its collection the work that we have looked at in this article. It is an installation called Alicia, by the Ubeta artist Cristina Lucas. It is inspired by a passage from Lewis Carroll's famous book Alice's Adventures in Wonderland, published in 1865. Specifically, it refers to the episode in which the protagonist tastes a cake on which the word “Eat me ”, Which causes her an instantaneous and uncontrolled growth, which makes her not fit in the room and have to stick her arm out of a window.

Thus, in Cristina Lucas's work, located next to the main entrance to the enclosure, we see a large head through a window, while a large arm comes out of the other, managing to convey the feeling that we are facing a giant, who it occupies an entire interior space that we do not see, to the point of "overflowing" through its windows.

The work was originally conceived for an exhibition held in Córdoba in 2009, entitled El patio de mi casa. Contemporary art in 16 patios of Córdoba. The artist's starting idea had a clear component of social denunciation and pointed to the traditional conception that women should remain in some way attached to the domestic space, in a certain way secluded and oppressed by historically prevailing non-egalitarian values ​​and of which unfortunately many reminiscences remain.

This critical aspect fits perfectly into the whole of Cristina Lucas's work, characterized by a clear feminist component, which uses metaphorical and satirical resources to channel her complaint, through means as diverse as performance, video, installation, sculpture or drawing.

The example of the CAAC is one of the interesting reasons why it is worth visiting the old Cartuja Monastery, which with the arrival at its facilities of contemporary art collections has become a very interesting set of spaces in which they intermingle the traces of a long history with all kinds of highly topical artistic contributions. To this is added the educational and informative work carried out by the Andalusian Institute of Historical Heritage. All together, it forms an almost magical atmosphere, in a beautiful monumental setting, which constitutes one of the main focuses of the cultural life of Seville throughout the year, with constant events such as exhibitions, conferences, concerts or festivals.

Casa Fabiola Museo Bellver en Sevilla

THE ALLEGORY OF PEACE OF THE FABIOLA HOUSE

In 2018, a new and very interesting museum space was added to the great cultural offer of Seville in the heart of the Santa Cruz neighborhood. It is the Bellver Museum, installed in the so-called Casa Fabiola.

It is a palace that dates back to the 16th century, although it has been extensively renovated throughout its history and most of its current appearance dates from the 19th century, when it was owned by the Marquises of Ríos. It responds to the classic typology of Sevillian palace houses, articulated around a central porticoed patio, with marble columns and semicircular arches. It has an area of ​​almost 2,000 m2, with the main area on the first floor and a rich decoration based on tiles, paint, hardwoods and stucco.

After changing ownership on several occasions, the City Council acquired it in 2016, with the aim of rehabilitating it to house the Mariano Bellver art collection, which he had donated to the city the previous year.

Mariano Bellver was a collector from Bilbao, but settled in Seville since the 1940s, who throughout his life formed a magnificent collection of more than half a thousand pieces that cover a chronology that spans between the 16th and 20th centuries.

The heart of the collection is the set of costumbrista painting, which is probably the most important set of works on this subject. It is focused mainly on Andalusian authors of the 19th century and includes works by such prominent artists as Valeriano Domínguez Bécquer, Manuel García y Rodríguez, Ricardo López Cabrera, José Gutiérrez de la Vega, José García Ramos, Gonzalo Bilbao, Antonio Cabral Bejarano and José Pinelo Llull.

The popular theme that characterizes this type of painting and the fact that most of the works are framed in Andalusian settings mean that visiting the collection in some way serves to make a beautiful trip to the past. Through many of the works we can imagine the Seville of the 19th century and glimpse what remains of it in today's city and what has been irretrievably lost over time.

Although the essence of the Bellver Museum is the collection of traditional paintings, the collection also includes works in other formats, such as furniture, clocks or pieces of sculpture. Among them, we enter this maternity hospital entitled Paz, a terracotta work by the sculptor from Mairena del Alcor, Antonio Gavira Alba.

He is one of the most valued Andalusian sculptors of the 20th century and in this work he shows some of the essential characteristics of his style, which participates in the so-called Mediterranean classicism. He combines the simplicity of the forms, the undulating tendency and the smoothness in the treatment of the surfaces. The joint representation of the mother with the son was one of the recurring themes throughout his career and in the example of the Bellver collection we see one of the most beautiful expressions of him.

It is a splendid piece that manages to convey all the emotion of the wonderful spiritual and magical thread that unites a mother with her child. Without a doubt, it constitutes one more reason to visit the Casa Fabiola, a true treasure of the Santa Cruz neighborhood, in which a palatial architecture of beautiful classical lines is combined with a splendid artistic collection that is everyone's heritage thanks to the priceless generosity of the great man who was Mariano Bellver.

 

tORRE DE DON FADRIQUE Sevilla

THE TOWER OF DON FADRIQUE IN SEVILLE

The Don Fadrique tower, within the Espacio Santa Clara, is one of the first monuments from the Christian period that Seville conserves, since it was built very shortly after the conquest of the city in 1248. Specifically, according to the marble inscription that It is located on its entrance, it was ordered to be built in 1252 by the Infante Don Fadrique.

It is a beautiful free-standing tower with a square plan, with dimensions of 7.75 m. sideways and about 65 meters high, which are divided into three floors, the last one topped by a graceful body of battlements. It is built for the most part in brick, although it is combined with stone blocks in some of its parts, such as in the lower half of the ground floor and in the corners and central parts of the rest of the floors.

As we have said, the first body is built with ashlars in its lower half and in the upper half you can see some simple loopholes. On its northern side there is a beautiful doorway in Romanesque style, with two semicircular archivolts on columns that frame a multi-lobed opening. Both the central archivolt and the capitals have plant decoration and possibly there was also sculptural decoration on the tympanum, as can be seen by the fragments of figures that have been preserved on both sides. Above this entry is the aforementioned marble inscription, in which, according to the transcription of Gestoso in the monumental and artistic Seville of him, it can be read:

FABRICA: MAGNIFICA: TURRIS: FUIT: HEC: FREDERICI: ARTIS: ET: ARTIFICI: POTERIT: LAVS: MAXIMA: DICI: GRATA: BEATRICI: PROLES: FVIT: HIC: GENETRICI: REGIS: ET: HESPERICI: FERNANDI: LEGIS: AMICI: ERE: SISVBICI: CUPIS: ANNOS: AUT: REMINISCI: IN: NONAGENA: BISCENTVM: MILLE: SERENA DIVICIIS: PLENA: IAM: STABAT: TVRRIS: AMENA:

This tower is the factory of the magnificent Fadrique, it can be called the highest praise of art and of the architect: Beatriz, his mother, was pleased with this progeny of King Fernando, experienced and friend of the laws. If you want to know the era and the years, now one thousand two hundred and fifty-two (1252) already existed the serene and pleasant tower full of riches.

On the second floor there are simple Romanesque flared windows on each side, with semicircular arches on columns, just like on the door. On the top floor, however, the windows, also one on each side, already have clearly Gothic shapes. It has a series of pointed archivolts, which frame a central span with a beautiful multi-lobed shape. They are larger than the windows on the lower floor and have sculptural decoration on both the capitals and the outermost archivolt.

The cornice that tops this last body is wider than those that separate the rest of the floors and has gargoyles in each of its corners, although today they are very deteriorated.

The tower was originally part of the residence of the Infante Don Fadrique, son of Fernando III and Beatriz de Suabia, who built his palace on a previous one from the Almohad period. This area was within the walled enclosure of the city, reason why the tower would not have a defensive purpose towards the outside too prominent. Most likely, his main motivation was prestige, wanting to show the power and importance of the titular character of the palace.

The infant had a rather tumultuous life, since apparently he had a certain tendency to conspiracy. He participated in various conspiracies against his brother and was finally executed in Burgos in 1277 on his orders. The circumstances surrounding this event are not entirely clear, since there are different versions of both the execution of it and the reasons that motivated it.

In one of the explanations for the enmity between King Alfonso and Don Fadrique, the tower we are talking about today has a prominent role. There is a story, with a rather legendary character, that tells that there were love affairs between the infant and his stepmother, Juana de Ponthieu, second wife of his father, King Ferdinand III. The queen and her stepson were barely a few years old and, apparently, rumors spread through Seville about their relationship, placing the love affairs between them in this tower. When these news reached the ears of Alfonso X, he would have ordered the exile of Juana to France and initiated a process against his brother Fadrique for violating royal decorum, having maintained relations with the widow of his father.

As we said, although widely spread, this story has all the signs of being just a legend. Be that as it may, once Fadrique died, his possessions in Seville once again belonged to the Crown and in 1289 they were ceded by King Sancho IV for the foundation of the Santa Clara convent. The nuns progressively transformed all the spaces of the infant's residence for monastic use, but they respected the tower, which has allowed it to remain in a magnificent state to this day.

To its indisputable historical value is added its exceptional artistic significance, since it is one of the very few examples of Romanesque art that we find in Seville and probably the first manifestation of Gothic art in the city. Furthermore, the fact that both styles succeed one another in the same building is shown as a beautiful analogy of the transition between the Romanesque and Gothic worlds. In its solemn simplicity, the Don Fadrique tower is one of the great artistic jewels of Seville.

Puerta de la Asunción de la Catedral de Sevilla

THE DOOR OF THE ASSUMPTION IN THE CATHEDRAL OF SEVILLE

The Puerta de la Asunción, on Avenida de la Constitución, is the main entrance to the Cathedral of Seville. However, its completion was not addressed until well into the 19th century, at the initiative of Cardinal Cienfuegos Jovellanos. In a first phase, between 1827 and 1831, the façade was built according to a project by the architect Fernando de Rosales. It was made in a neo-Gothic style, with the aim that it would marry well with the rest of the cathedral and specifically with the doors that are on each side, the Baptism and San Miguel doors, which are Gothic from the 15th century.

The lack of budget to continue the works meant that for the sculptural decoration it was necessary to wait even fifty more years. It was commissioned to Ricardo Bellver, one of the most prestigious sculptors in the country at that time, author of "El Ángel Caído" which is in El Retiro in Madrid.

In 1885 he finished the sculptural decoration of the tympanum, for which he made the Assumption of the Virgin ensemble, and in later years he would carry out the series of sculptures of apostles and saints located in the niches on the sides of the door. A total of 40 were commissioned, but only managed to carry out 39, since, once again, the budget was exhausted again.

The set of the tympanum was made of Monóvar stone and presents the theme of the Assumption of the Virgin following quite classic schemes, with the aim of not clashing with the Gothic and Renaissance decoration of the rest of the doors of the Cathedral. It represents the Virgin in the center of the composition, framed in a mandorla, in an attitude of ascending supported by angels, who raise her from the open sepulcher at her feet to the figure of God the Father, who appears at the vertex. On both sides, between clouds, a series of angels appear, some of them playing musical instruments.

At the far right from the viewer's point of view, one of the most endearing aspects of the composition appears. The female angel that appears playing a portable organ is the representation of the sculptor's wife, Pilar Ferrant, who died in 1880 when she was only 23 years old, this circumstance coinciding in time with the making of the preparatory sketches for the work. The following year, their first-born son, Luis Bellver, also died at a very young age. The sculptor decides to represent him also as a little angel in the final composition. And so mother and son appear, looking at each other, represented as angels next to the Virgin, on the main portal of the Cathedral of Seville.

As we already mentioned, in the following years, between 1885 and 1899, the sculptor would carry out the series of saints located on both sides of the door. The realization of these sculptures was not without controversy, except for their style, for the material in which they were made. The funds available to the Cabildo de la Catedral to carry out the works were limited, so they commissioned the artist to use Portland cement, which was much cheaper, instead of stone.

As soon as the first sculptures were placed, criticism began to spread among artists and scholars of the city, who considered this material unworthy of being used for the ornamentation of the doorway of a cathedral. It was argued that if it was not possible to carry out the works in stone, at least they should have opted for fired clay, a material that was chosen for the decoration of the doors of the cathedral of the 15th and 16th centuries. The issue reached the San Fernando Academy of Fine Arts, which finally supported the good work of the artist, although regretting that the material was not of a dignity more appropriate to the monument.

Regardless of the materials imposed by the circumstances, it must be said that the quality of the sculptor is evident in his work for Seville. It should not be forgotten that there was another important determining factor: the Gothic framework in which the works had to be framed and with which they could not clash. This circumstance undoubtedly reduced the author's creative freedom and made him have to adapt to very rigid compositional schemes. However, the sculptures are made in great detail and are well documented in terms of the symbols or attributes that each saint carries. Despite the dark color to which the cement tends, it is possible to appreciate the sculptural quality both in the treatment of the clothes and in the careful and restrained expression of the faces.

The initial idea for the cover included many more sculptures, with the idea of ​​also filling the archivolt canopies, but finally the project was stopped and the set has remained unfinished to this day. However, with the conjunction of the Neo-Gothic style and the sculptural work of Bellver, it was possible to give a quite dignified solution to the question, achieving that the main portal is currently shown as an element in harmony with the rest of the Hispalense Cathedral.

Dibujo del edificio de la Sombrarería Maquedano en la calle Sierpes de Sevilla

THE MAQUEDANO HAT SHOP

The Maquedano hat shop is located on the emblematic Sierpes street, on the corner of Rioja. The firm was founded in 1896 and the building in which it is located is a work of the architect José Gómez Millán from 1910.

It is, therefore, one of the oldest businesses within what is probably the most characteristic commercial hub of Seville. In addition, the titular family has managed to maintain its original style and spirit over time, so approaching the hat shop is like taking a little trip to Seville at the beginning of the 20th century.

From that time are some of the modernist jewels that the city conserves and in particular this property shows many of the features of this style. We see it, for example, in the decoration of the pilasters that frame its shop windows and in the rounded shapes of the wooden “pediments” on each one of them.

But this beautiful modernist building is made just at the time when it was beginning to move between this style and regionalism, in which many of the masterpieces of Sevillian architecture of the twentieth century were built.

Both styles largely share their original spirit, such as their strong aestheticism, which is manifested above all in the ornamental richness of the facades, or their reaction to the corset represented by the academicism and historicism prevailing in the 19th century.

The difference is that while modernism is more open to innovation in terms of materials, techniques and decorative forms, regionalism postulates a look to the past, to the architectural tradition considered vernacular in Andalusia, as the main source of inspiration for the new constructions.

Thus it seems to be glimpsed in the third body of this work, in which the sinuous forms of the modernist decoration are combined with a small gallery of semicircular arches on marble columns, one of the most present elements in Sevillian and Western architecture throughout the long of the time.

In short, it is a magnificent example of a certain moment in the history of art in the city, which fortunately has survived practically intact to this day.

Dibujo de la fachada principal de la Universidad de Sevilla, antigua fábrica de Tabacos. Sebastián Van der Borcht

THE FACADE OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SEVILLE

The Royal Tobacco Factory building is currently the headquarters of the University of Seville, where its Rectorate and some of its faculties are located.

It is a huge construction with a rectangular plan, measuring 185 by 147 meters on a side, constituting one of the main industrial buildings that were built throughout Europe during the 18th century. It was also the second largest building in Spain in its time, only behind El Escorial.

Around 1620, the world's first tobacco factory had been founded in Seville, which was located opposite the church of San Pedro, in the area of ​​the current Plaza del Cristo in Burgos. It was owned by the Crown and with it the tobacco production was centralized, which until then had been dispersed in numerous workshops around the city.

With the boom in the consumption and export of tobacco, the facilities of the old factory are clearly insufficient and the construction of a new building is decided, within the general idea that came with the Enlightenment to boost the industry to a certain extent through the establishment of large manufacturing centers under royal patronage.

In the case of Seville, a colossal building was projected, in whose design and construction several architects intervened successively, since their works lasted for several decades from 1728. The original designs are by Ignacio Sala and later Diego Bordick and Sebastián Van der intervene. Borcht, to whom the greatest Mars of the work is mainly owed.

The floor of the resulting building would be that of a huge rectangle, with the angles somewhat highlighted with respect to the rest of the façade, and with its interior space articulated through a series of patios around which the different rooms are distributed. Its elevation towards the exterior uses clearly classical forms, reminiscent of Renaissance precedents of the Herrerian type, such as the old Lonja in Seville itself. Despite the enormous dimensions, the arrangement of the facades is more reminiscent of a palatial construction than a building with a manufacturing purpose.

Two small constructions were added to the set at each of the ends of the main façade, which served as a chapel and as its own prison, and was surrounded by a huge moat on three sides, with which it was tried to prevent it from being removed smuggled tobacco from the factory.

The main portal, which faces Calle San Fernando, responds in its traces to the design of Van der Borcht, while its sculptural decoration was carried out by Cayetano de Acosta. This Portuguese sculptor is one of the great masters of the Baroque in Seville during the 18th century, specialized above all in the realization of altarpieces, as shown by the extraordinary examples from El Salvador, Santa Rosalía or San Luis de los Franceses.

Around the main door were placed a series of reliefs alluding to the conquest of America as an indispensable historical precedent for the development of the tobacco industry in Seville. In this way, in each of the jambs the mills that were used to crush the tobacco leaf are represented, and two Indians, one with a bow and arrows and the other smoking a pipe. In the archivolt you can see two naves and the busts of Cortés on the left and Columbus on the right. Above the key, a huge molding of scrolls and plant decoration frames the sign "FÁBRICA REAL DE TABACOS".

In the next body a balcony opens on which the inscription “DEL REYNADO DE FERNANDO VI. YEAR MDCCLVII ”(1757) and, occupying almost the entire triangular pediment of the façade, a huge shield with the royal arms.

The whole set is finished off by what is probably the most recognizable element of the façade: a sculpture of "Fame", the work of Cayetano de Acosta himself. He represents her graceful, perched on a cloud, with beautiful open copper wings and playing a trumpet, also made of copper.

In general, in classical mythology, "Fame" was the goddess responsible for the spread of facts and rumors, causing in many cases of disputes and misunderstandings. In fact, she has usually been artistically represented carrying two trumpets, the one of truth and the one of lies, as a symbol that she spread the information regardless of whether they were true or not.

In the case of Acosta's “Fame”, she carries a single trumpet, since in this case she has more of a sense of celebrity. In some way, she would come to symbolize the prestige and historical reputation of the Spanish Monarchy, under whose authority the enormous building of the Tobacco Factory is made.

In any case, it is a beautiful culmination for an exceptional Baroque façade, to the point that the University of Seville, which has occupied the building since 1954, included it in its logo and since then it has been its most recognizable emblem.